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Ask-a-Grower Podcast #25-Hydrodynamics International

Transcription

Introducing Hydrodynamics International

Welcome to Ask-A-Grower folks. We are here with Hydrodynamics International.
We’re here with Harley Smith to talk about some Mother Plant, Clonex and Nitrozime.

Can you tell us something about the products?

Clonex is a rooting gel. It has hormones in it that when you take a cutting from growing
tip like the end of a branch, you dip it into the cloning gel, the gel sticks to it. The
hormones in it, the IBA, the indole butyric acid tells the plant “make roots”. So that little
cutting from the end of a branch turns into a whole new plant, identical to the mother
plant that it was taken from.

How does Clonex compare to other rooting agents on the market?

Clonex is the most popular cloning gel in the world. There are cloning powders out there
that do work well. They have the same active ingredients in them as the gel, but they
wash off very quickly, whereas the gel literally sticks to the end of the stem where you
cut it, seals up the wound, prevents air bubbles from get into that cutting that you just took
and the active ingredient stays in contact with the stem longer.

Is there something that people who use cloners like Easy Cloner or Turbo Klone, should know about?

If you have a clone machine like an aeroponics system, I like to turn the clone machine
off, take my cuttings, put them in the machine, wait a few minutes, let the clone gel set
up a little bit and then turn it back on. It doesn’t wash off immediately.

Is this an organic product?

The Clonex is not organic. The rooting hormone is a natural organic hormone but it’s
produced synthetically, so we can get the same dosage every time.

Can you tell us a little bit about Nitrozime?

The Nitrozime is a very concentrated seaweed extract. Seaweed is loaded with natural
plant growth hormones, but unlike the rooting hormone it has a hormone called
cytokin, which stimulates cell division. So to use Nitrozime extract at the roots
you have to stimulate the cell division there. You get more roots mass, more root
development. If you use it as a foliar spray, it will stimulate the lateral bud development
instead. It also helps to break the apical dominance in it so instead of the energy going
into top growth the energy in the plant goes into the lateral bud development.

So you just use it in during veg or all the way through the entire run?

Well, I don’t believe in spraying anything on flowers themselves; flowers are very
delicate. I don’t even spray water onto the flowers. So it’s best during veg and
at the very beginning of flowering. That would be the best time, in that transition
period, between veg and bloom. It will stimulate the lateral bland branch and bud
development and it has a downstream effect on the quality of the flowers and the flavors
of the fruits.

Can you tell us something about the source of the Nitrozime or if it’s organic?

Nitrozime is from brown seaweed called astofilum medosum. It is certainly organic. The
seaweed grows in the literal zone, the title zone, so it’s subject to many environmental
stresses – the plant itself. The moment we take the extracts from that plant and we give
them to another plant we are transferring some of the plant protection agents to the host
plant.

Are these active biologicals, are they still alive? Is tap water going to have an effect on Nitrozime?

Nitrozime is no longer alive; it’s composted, it’s very stable and very concentrated.
It’s organic, but it doesn’t have live microorganisms in it. If you use that at the roots,
especially in combination with another organic source, say humic acids – put those two
together, the Nitrozime will be the signal to the plant for growth and the humic acid will
be the amplifier. Put them together and you get a boom box. It works 50% better than any
product alone. And we do have a humic acid product called Fossil Fuel that is available.

Is there any NPK at all in the Nitrozime?

There is some NPK, but it’s not a fertilizer. It would be a bio stimulant. It’ll help the
plants’ natural resistance, to pest and disease, and especially its resistance against
environmental stress. If everything is perfect in the grow room all the time, the plant
makes plenty of its own plant protecting agents. We all know as gardeners, it doesn’t
always work as we like. Sometimes it gets too hot, sometimes a meter breaks, and a
little bit of salt stress, heat stress, UV stress from the lights or a combination. If you do
use something like Nitrozime and Fossilfuel, the plant will build up a reserve of plant
protection agents. It will recover much faster after the stress goes away.

Do you have any best practices for using Nitrozime?

Well, it kind of expensive. So my advice is to use it a foliar spray because you get a lot
more for your money. If you’re adding it to a quart of water instead of 30 gallons in a reservoir, you can make a little go a long way.

Can you tell us something about the Mother Plant nutrients?

I am very proud of Mother Plant; I developed that from scratch, took about 10 years. But
the nutritional needs of mother plants are different that they are for production plants.
We have to put in all of the essential elements the plants need, in the right proportion.
But we also put in organic bio stimulants to help the plant take up those minerals more
efficiently. So instead of getting the biggest plant that we can grow, we wanted to get
the healthiest plant that we can grow with lots of stored energy. So we put in all the
essential elements in the very pure water soluble form and then we added specific amino
acids, trace elements and extracts from beneficial bacteria. It’ll help the plant take it up;
as a result the plant produces more sugar, carbo load in the tissue. So when you take the
cuttings, it roots in almost half the time and the transplant shock is much less as well.

Are we talking about days or weeks that that would take off a run?

It’s hard to say. If it’s a woody tissue, it will take longer to root, no matter what. If you
take a woody cutting from pepper plant, let’s say, it will take longer than say taking a
cutting from a basil plant. But what I am hearing from the field is as much as half the
time for roots that it took before. So if it was two weeks before, I am getting reports of
one week; if it was a week before, I am getting a report in four days. I cannot give you an
exact number, but it does reduce the time it takes to root.

Is it a two part formula, three part formula?

It’s a two part formula. We have to keep the calcium separate from the phosphates and
sulfates; otherwise they will get locked up. One thing I added though to the calcium
part – the part A, is I added specific amino acids, that are found in nature that literally
stimulate root cells to open up calcium ion channels. So not only that I give the calcium
in water soluble form, I give them the amino acids, to help the plant take up the calcium
thousands of times faster, than simple osmosis. The vascular tissue becomes very strong,
the plant can take up all the water and all the other minerals more efficiently because
of that. And as a result, the brix go up, the sugar content and the sap. That’s what we
want. In our mother plant we want: stored water, stored minerals and stored energy in
the form of carbohydrates. Because once you take the cutting, put it in the cloning gel, it
starts to make roots. But then the little cutting has to have the energy to make the roots.

Could an all organic farmer use Mother Plant?

No. Mother Plant is what I would call bio hydroponic. It would not be certified organic
because all the minerals, the essential elements, are in mineral form, not from organic
sources. Plants can’t take up large organic molecules. They have to be broken down by
microorganisms into their ionic form, very small molecules that the roots are able to take
up. So I felt that it was better to give the essential elements, the minerals into the plant
into the same exact form that it’s taken up in nature directly. It does have organic bio
stimulants. It’s like bridging the gap between mineral and organic plant nutrition. So I
give them the perfect balance of minerals at the root, but then I give them what’s found
in nature, in the best richest organics soils, small organic molecule to help take up those
minerals more efficiently. So it would not be certified organic. But it’s really the best
of both worlds: mineral nutrition from the earth, organic nutrition from living micro
organisms in the soil.

Is your feeding schedule something a newbie can handle?

I think so. For Mother Plant I would recommend to use it like with any vegetative
formula, do a low to medium strength. If the bottle says, 3 to 4 teaspoons per gallon
start with about two. That’s just general good advice. Never start at full strength. See
how the plant responds. If you have it a little milder, it stimulates the plant to become
more vegetative, to take up the water and minerals more efficiently. You raise the EC,
the strength of the nutrient, it starts to choke the plant a little bit, and it keeps it from
stretching. So, follow the directions, but start on the mild side and work up to medium
strength.

Are there any tips or tricks that you’d like to pass along about using Mother Plant?

Yes. A very good addition to Mother Plant would be the Nitrozime, the seaweed
extract, but use it as a foliar. The cytokins in Nitrozime, literally pull the nutrients into
the tissue. It breaks the apical dominance and lets the plant develop more lateral buds.
You use the mother plant at the roots; it helps take up the minerals. You’re pushing from
the roots with mother plant; you’re pulling into the tissue with the Nitrozime seaweed
foliar spray. If you put the two together, there’s no better way to charge the batteries of
the plant and get best results from a healthy cutting. Bottom line is, if you have a healthy
mother, full of nutrition, you will have a healthy clone. With a healthy clone, you are
starting that plant out right, and it usually is the better producers of the line.

Can you use Mother Plant with soil or hydroponics?

Absolutely, the minerals are in a water soluble form, but the bio part, the organic bio
stimulants will literally stimulate the metabolism of micro organisms too, in soil. So
if their energy improves, they reproduce faster and as they’re reproducing “pop-pop-
pop”, they are producing enzymes, those enzymes make the minerals more available
to the plant. Also there are co-enzymes, in Mother Plant, that turn on the enzymes that
the microorganisms produce. So it has a dramatic effect both ways. And the plant in
hydroponics would stimulate the root cells directly. In soil, it will stimulate the root cells,
but also the microorganisms that are in the soil.

Thank you so much. I’ve learned more about hydrodynamics that I could’ve imagined. Thank you. This was Harley Smith the research director at Hydrodynamics International that is www.hydrodynamicsintl.com
If you have any other questions for him, feel free to submit them at 128.199.117.192